Old Shanghai
On Sunday S and I took a tour of some of Shanghai's remaining old villa homes. The tour was organized by the local government to introduce foreigners to some of Shanghai's rich history. We started at the Xuhui Art Museum near Huaihai Rd and Fuxing Rd. The museum itself dates from the early 20th century and was turned into a public library before the Communist takeover in 1949. The museum includes an interesting bilingual exhibit on the architecture of Shanghai.
Among the other homes that we were shown was the "Love Cottage" at #9 Dongping Rd. that was owned by KMT leader Chiang Kai-Shek and his famous wife, Soong Mei-ling. This two-storied villa of French design was built in 1932 and was bought by Soong Mei-ling's brother for her dowry. The house has been repaired from extensive damage it suffered during the Cultural Revolution and now is the Music Middle School of the Shanghai Conservatory.
The guide we had was colorful but hopelessly politically incorrect. He did not endear himself to the ladies on our bus, most of them professionals and executives, by repeatedly asking them if they were depressed because they weren't out spending their VIP husbands' money. He asked one lady executive next to us what her husband did - showing absolutely no interest in what she did. He introduced our two translators, one male, one female, as a "gentleman" and as a "pretty girl". The ladies fumed but held their tongues. S and I left the tour early to avoid the linching I was certain the guide would suffer.
Most of Shanghai's grand old homes have been turned into schools, government offices, or restaurants. When the Communists took over China the homes were taken away from their original capitalist owners and used as government buildings. Some were given to Communist leaders and some were given over to multiple families which occupied the various rooms in the houses. When China opened up a bit in the 80s and 90s many of the government agencies occupying the homes sold them to businesses or opened their own businesses to earn revenue.
Today, I had lunch at the Magnolia on top of the Mansion Hotel at the corner of Xinle Road and Xiangyang Road. This new boutique hotel in the center of Shanghai used to be the home of Shanghai's most notorious 20s gangster. The five-story limestone building fell into disrepair and became home to several dozen families before it was recently renovated and turned into a hotel. Standard rooms at the hotel go for $385 a night. Suites are $800 a night. Those of us with more sense than money can enjoy the rooftop terrace restaurant for the price of a $12 lunch and go home with $788 in change.
On Sunday S and I took a tour of some of Shanghai's remaining old villa homes. The tour was organized by the local government to introduce foreigners to some of Shanghai's rich history. We started at the Xuhui Art Museum near Huaihai Rd and Fuxing Rd. The museum itself dates from the early 20th century and was turned into a public library before the Communist takeover in 1949. The museum includes an interesting bilingual exhibit on the architecture of Shanghai.
Among the other homes that we were shown was the "Love Cottage" at #9 Dongping Rd. that was owned by KMT leader Chiang Kai-Shek and his famous wife, Soong Mei-ling. This two-storied villa of French design was built in 1932 and was bought by Soong Mei-ling's brother for her dowry. The house has been repaired from extensive damage it suffered during the Cultural Revolution and now is the Music Middle School of the Shanghai Conservatory.
The guide we had was colorful but hopelessly politically incorrect. He did not endear himself to the ladies on our bus, most of them professionals and executives, by repeatedly asking them if they were depressed because they weren't out spending their VIP husbands' money. He asked one lady executive next to us what her husband did - showing absolutely no interest in what she did. He introduced our two translators, one male, one female, as a "gentleman" and as a "pretty girl". The ladies fumed but held their tongues. S and I left the tour early to avoid the linching I was certain the guide would suffer.
Most of Shanghai's grand old homes have been turned into schools, government offices, or restaurants. When the Communists took over China the homes were taken away from their original capitalist owners and used as government buildings. Some were given to Communist leaders and some were given over to multiple families which occupied the various rooms in the houses. When China opened up a bit in the 80s and 90s many of the government agencies occupying the homes sold them to businesses or opened their own businesses to earn revenue.
Today, I had lunch at the Magnolia on top of the Mansion Hotel at the corner of Xinle Road and Xiangyang Road. This new boutique hotel in the center of Shanghai used to be the home of Shanghai's most notorious 20s gangster. The five-story limestone building fell into disrepair and became home to several dozen families before it was recently renovated and turned into a hotel. Standard rooms at the hotel go for $385 a night. Suites are $800 a night. Those of us with more sense than money can enjoy the rooftop terrace restaurant for the price of a $12 lunch and go home with $788 in change.
posted by Kevcham at 5:23 AM
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