Discover Shitamachi

Using a book called "Discover Shitamachi" that I bought in 1985 I explored the Kanda portion of old Tokyo this weekend. Starting at Yushima on Saturday I made my way through the Yushima Shrine, the Kanda Shrine and the Confucius Temple to Ochanomizu. Today, I continued the journey by starting at the other end, Kanda and working my way back to Ochanomizu, which literally means "Tea Water". This area was part of the original city of Edo, which eventually came to be called Tokyo. Today, it is home to many universities, used book stores and music stores, as well as shrines.

I found that much of the walking tour described in my book is no longer there. The old wooden buildings described in this 1980s book are no longer standing, having been razed for skyscrapers that are still under construction near the Manseibashi (Thousand Year Bridge) between Kanda and Ochanomizu. Too late yet again.

The most interesting part of my journey this weekend was witnessing two Shinto weddings, one at Yushima Shrine and the other at Kanda Shrine. The sight of the brides wearing high white hoods to hide their horns of jealousy were striking. When one removed the hood to get into a van I saw that they do indeed wear wooden "horns" under the hood. I wish I could describe the Shinto music that accompanied the weddings - but it was quintessentially Japanese - I'll have to leave it at that and hope you get a chance to hear it for yourself.