Saturday, October 04, 2008

Searching for the Canidrome

In search of the old Canidrome of Shanghai this week. I came across a reference to the Canidrome while reading "Shanghai, The Paradise of Adventurers" published in 1937. The author, G.E. Miller (pseudonym) recounts going to the dog racing venue for gambling but describes it as an elegant club for the rich. I had never heard of this place in Shanghai so I searched online for its location and found that it had been demolished in 2006 soon after my arrival in Shanghai.

According to Wikipedia:

The clubhouse and racetrack became a multi-purpose entertainment venue, but became a place for political rallies after the founding of the People's Republic of China and a mass execution facility. Later it became a theatre and exhibition space before it was demolished in 2006. The original Canidrome grandstand was demolished as part of the reconstruction of the precinct to become a park incorporating various cultural venues[2].

I found the location of the old Canidrome and circled the block looking for any remnant but found nothing but walls, grungy shops and a hidden construction site. A small sign next to an easily overlooked archway says Cultural Park Plaza and features a fading architects drawing of a Cultural Center that must be under slow construction behind the walls. Sadly, nothing at all remains of the elegant building described in Miller's book.

I walked north on Maoming Road to find the famous old French Club that Miller also described in his book. I found it, but it's been turned into the entrance for the Okura Hotel. Walking inside I was disappointed to find that it had been completely gutted and redone in modern style - sickly modern 5-star hotel style.

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