Saturday, March 31, 2007

The Day After

I experienced both extremes of speed on China's freeways yesterday.

In a 10-person van on the way to Hangzhou we discovered what a traffic jam can come to in China. A two-car crash literally shut down a four-lane (becomes a 5 or 6-lane with Chinese drivers) expressway for over two hours. We tuned to the frequency advertised as providing road information but there was no word on the cause of the standstill. Some of the drivers managed to turn their cars around and try to drive in the opposite direction but found that the sides of the road had already been filled up with cars and trucks trying to scoot around the traffic.

For two hours we waited for something to happen, for "the authorities" to open up at least one lane or to create a crossover and divide the other side of the divided highway into a temporary two-lane. But the authorities only solution was to keep thousands of cars waiting while they cleaned up the mess. No thinking out of the box here.

As the jam finally loosened and drivers raced forward I noticed that this very modern divided highway was completely divided. There were no gaps in the iron guardrails in the middle. There was literally no way for anyone, including emergency crews, to cross over. A solid iron fence on the outside lane kept drivers from exiting that way as well. The planners of this highway had not planned for a need to create an emergency exit. Once thousands of cars and trucks get in a jam there is no way out - and the off ramps are many miles apart. It's a dangerous weakness in the system. Another example of the hardware outpacing the software (systems) in China.

But then maybe the planners had planned ahead afterall. If they had left the ocassional gap in the iron fences they no doubt knew that China's drivers would use those gaps. If they decided they wanted to turn around, pass cars, or just to see where the heck the hole led to the drivers here would zip through the gaps into oncoming traffic. That is simply a universal law of physics in China. If an empty space is percieved then people move very quickly to fill that space and see what advantage can come of it. That could be deadly on a highspeed highway.

As soon as the cars started moving they really moved. Cars and trucks were swerving all over the road trying to make up lost time. A number of cars had either run out of gas or battery while they were idling for two hours so here and there a vehicle was setting abandoned in the middle of a lane. The way the authorities had mishandled the situation was sure to lead to even more disasters. And of course, as is de rigeur in China, our rented van was without safety belts for anyone except the driver.

As you have no doubt surmised, I survived the trip to Hangzhou. The hour-long wait in a taxi line upon my return to Shanghai on a Friday night was an anti-climax to an exciting day on the road - in China.

Tuesday, March 27, 2007

Taking a Break

I've been remiss in writing lately - mostly because I've had the flu for a couple of weeks. I tried to "tough it out" because things at work are just so overwhelmingly busy - but the lack of rest caught up with me and I just had to hang it up and go home for a few days rest. By the time I took the break I had laryngitis so it's been a quiet few days.

Sunday, March 18, 2007

911 or 119?

The emergency phone number in the US and Canada is 911. Guess what it is in China? You're right - it's exactly the opposite, 119. I would have liked to have been in on the meeting where the PRC authorities decided what number to use. It could have been 777, 000, 111, 321 or whatever. But somebody had to suggest doing just the opposite of what the North Americans did. There's a meaning here. And yes, North America's 911 originated before China's 119 did.

When you look at emergency numbers around the world you find that most countries have a unique number to call for emergencies. In Australia it's 000 so I'm sure lots of thick-fingered Ozzies trying to dial the operator end up at Emergency Services instead. Why don't we have a universal emergency number? Obviously to make sure it's the locals that get saved first.

Saturday, March 17, 2007

Qiu Xiaolong

Earlier this week I had a chance to meet and listen to Qiu Xiaolong, the author of the Detective Chen series. Among other books he has written "When Red is Black" and "Loyal Character Dancer". A resident of St Louis for about 20 years, Qiu grew up in Shanghai during the Cultural Revolution when he and his family suffered greatly. In 1988 Qiu went to Washington University in St. Louis for a year's study but when Tiananmen happened in 1989 he decided not to return to China.

Qiu related that while he has received much aclaim in North America and Europe he has had mixed reactions in China. During a recent interview in China he was criticized for not writing in Chinese or returning to China to live. He couldn't discuss the real reason - that in China he cannot be free to write and have published what he wants.

The pettiness of China's censors were apparent in the way the translations of his books in China have been handled. While his books are all set in Shanghai his Chinese publisher had to change the venue to a fictional city called "H-City", apparently because the censors didn't want to admit that crime takes place in the real Shanghai. References to the Cultural Revolution had to be removed from the translations of Loyal Character Dancer (the title itself being such a reference) and his other books. The examples of why a writer such as Qiu cannot live and work in China go on and on.
All the men are strong, the women good-looking, and the children above average


While walking down Taicang Road this afternoon we came upon a restaurant apparently specializing in fish, namely something called Volcano Carbon fried fish. It sounds gritty but must have an advantageous effect on people's well-being. Some of the people coming out of the restaurant must have been new acolytes to the fish diet because the claimed effects had not had time to kick-in.

photo by G-man

Thursday, March 15, 2007

Autumn Morning

A sound flickers
against the coated window cool
in the autumn light…

A small round fan
of blue plastic flutters
chasing papers across a desk…

Wednesday, March 14, 2007

Speed

This news about the world's biggest bus caught my eye today. How in the world something this long could get through the streets of Shanghai is beyond me. It might work if there are bus-only lanes and no turning is required. The manufacturer claims that 300 people can ride the bus but even as large as it is - I cannot see how 300 people could get on the bus unless you stacked them like cordwood. But on second thought - that's what they do in Shanghai.

Then of course there are the pedestrians. The way bus drivers plow through crowds here I dread what could happen when these giant weapons are unleashed on an unsuspecting public. But I do want to see the inevitable movie, Speed: China, starring Keanu Reeves and Sandra Bullock trapped on board a runaway monster bus on the streets of China.

Sunday, March 11, 2007

Have You Eaten Yet?

The Chinese love pork. Pig is on the menu everywhere in China - except for the Muslim areas of western China. Mike R. sent me this link to a great website called Kookychow.com So while this absolutely disgusts me, I think you'll agree that this product from Armour might go over well in China.

Friday, March 09, 2007

Pet Peeve #23 The Combiblock spout found on juice drinks in China. This is one European invention China could do without. It's hard to open. It splashes drink all over. And for people who like to drink out of the bottle - you can't. It's a bad idea. Just give me that good ol' screw-top.
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Thursday, March 08, 2007

Rule # 57: Don't pat old men on their heads

I like riding the buses in Shanghai - as long as I can get a seat. I like riding along above the crowds and watching them going about their daily business. I don't usually nod off on the bus like so many Shanghainese do. Today was different. My seat was over a heater and it was so comfortable I went to sleep on the way home. I woke up just in time to get off at my stop but in jumping up I knocked the cap off an old man seated in front of me. My synapses weren't firing well - I picked up his cap, put it back on his head and patted his head a couple of times like he was a little kid. I think he was pretty perplexed. I hurried off the bus.