Big Print

Frustrated with trying to use the online Chinese dictionaries (the Internet is so bad here) I braved the crush at the giant bookstore downtown to buy an old-fashioned "hardcopy" dictionary. If Barnes and Noble have ever seen the bookstores here they must be salivating over this market. China is a country of readers. Young people jam the bookstores to the point one can hardly navigate through them. The bookstores are as high as 7 floors and what I want always seems to be on the top floor.

I also bought a magnifying glass because the publishers here assume everyone can read tiny print. I have yet to find a "big print" section at a Chinese bookstore. And when it comes to reading those tiny Chinese characters with dozens of little strokes in them - well my naked eyes can't handle it.

Before coming home I stopped at McDonalds and had a Coke, french fries and a pineapple pie. I hadn't had this sort of thing in several weeks so it was great - especially the pie. The stomach needs something familiar from time to time.

Busing to People's Plaza

We are in the middle of the Chinese New Year holiday. Most people are with family at this time so offices are closed but many retail shops have opened after being closed on Sunday for New Year's Day. The streets are relatively calm and traffic is light. The buses are running so I tried a new route today, bus #925 which took me to People's Plaza. The buses I've ridden so far have been clean and not too crowded. I know this is not the case during rush hours because I've seen the buses passing by at these hours with bits of humans squishing out of gaps in windows and doors. I don't plan on being part of that experience.

Once downtown I had lunch at the Taco Bell Grande which seems to be a sit-down version of Taco Bell. I had a guacamole quesadilla and a Pepsi for 50 yuan (about $6) before strolling over the the shopping street on Nanjing Road. I took one look at the mass of people and did a detour to the bookstores on Fuzhou Road. I tried to find a Chinese dictionary but all the Chinese-English dictionaries (and there are hundreds) I could find are designed for Chinese studying English.

On the way back home I stopped at a music shop and bought a CD by a young singer (Angela) that I would describe as the Chinese version of Bjork. I'm studying the lyrics but doubt I'll be able to use them at formal banquets?

Some people have waited in line at the art museum a long time. 

A few people take a stroll on Nanjing Road during the Chinese New Year holiday. 

Year of the Dog

As I write this the city is under siege. The windows are shuddering with the reverberations of explosions from all directions. The sky is alight even though it is 11 pm on a Saturday night. The Year of the Dog has arrived and I'm experiencing Chinese New Year in China. The fireworks started almost six hours ago and haven't let up. I'm told it will last until 3 am.

I've seen more elaborate firework displays but under controlled conditions. This is total chaos. Everyone is throwing little bombs around and shooting fireworks over rooftops. Every neighborhood has its own fireworks display. Even the little compound I live in had a fireworks display - not 50 feet away from my balcony. The workers carried several large cardboard boxes - fireworks displays-in-a-box out and set them alight. The boxes were self-contained and sequenced displays that lasted 10-minutes each. No need for lighting each rocket. One of the kits was lit upside down by error and shot rockets against the side of the neighbors house until one brave worker righted it.

The Chinese TV networks are featuring variety show extravaganzas tonight. The Rod Stewart exploding hair fashion is definitely in here. Rap is in. So is singing one line of your song in English. One good group I listened to looked like The Cure.

Well, gotta go, in celebration of the Year o' the Dog the Cartoon Channel (Asia) is showing all the Courage the Cowardly Dog episodes back-to-back. I can't wait until the Year of Cow & Chicken.

Contact and Depends

Desperate for relief from the flu symptons I went to the local pharmacy and bought Contact and Tylenol Cold medicines. These are made-in-China products of these American companies. Why was I reluctant to buy the local medicines? Because I had read a report on the large percentage of medications in China that are counterfeit brands - not real medicine at all. You never know what you are really getting. But I took the Contact and it worked. So far, no side effects. I was surprised at how cheap the medicines were - less than half the price I would have paid in the States.

Calisooner thought maybe the Homely Vegetarian Meat Balls had made me sick. But since I haven't eaten them yet, it must have been the news article that momlls sent me about a big rush on sales of Depends in China. Seems that on trains here during the Chinese New Year its standing room only - even the toilets are filled with people standing. So the solution on these long train rides to home villages is a supply of Depends.

A Virus Thing

Pizzaman is under the weather so not much to blog about. Here only two weeks and already found my first virus. I'm staying in bed and watching HBO. Back soon.

Homely Vegetarian

Today's walk started out with a 10 yuan ($1.20) taxi ride to Vegetarian Life Cafe. I had tried to find it before but without luck. The available maps are pretty poor so I let the taxi driver find it for me. It was around a mile away but near the big French megamart (Carrefour) that is so popular.

They seated me at a big round table with two other parties - which is common in China - and I ordered Sichuan "chicken" and jiaozi (dumplings). The vegie chicken dish had equal parts fake chicken bits, peanuts and chili peppers. I should have eaten the jiaozi first because my tongue had no feeling by the time I got to them. But I had a good cry.

Downstairs, I found a vegie grocery where I loaded up on vegie ham, chicken, curry, bacon, etc for evaluation. I also got a package of something called "Homely Vegetarian Meat Balls" (see picture). Strange marketing strategy I must say. Despite the insults I also picked up some dried gingko seeds to try - I think I'm aleady addicted to them.

I'm not sure how to take this. I think they were trying to say "homemade" vegetarian meat balls?  

Prairie Night

I walked a mile or so in a new direction this afternoon and found a shopping mall with a Pappa John's Pizza, KFC, McD (called "maidonlao" here), and a bagguette bakery. It also had a supermarket where I find new varieties of vegie "ham" and dried tofu. One variety I like is jerky-like pieces of tofu soaked in chili sauce. I eat it right out of the bag.

In the evening I took a taxi on the 20-minute ride downtown (US$3.50) and attended a symphony orchestra performance at the city's opera house. They performed traditional Chinese songs on western instruments (violins, etc) and it was great. Song titles included (my translation) "prairie night", "I miss my family", "I'm a goat", and everyone's favorite, "I want to return to my mother's house".

Walking may not sound like much of an adventure but crossing the street definitely is. Green walk lights here mean "walk if you dare" because cars don't stop for pedestrians - many don't even stop for red lights. The key is to look in all directions, take nothing for granted, and walk at a steady pace - preferably in the middle of a lot of local people. If you stop and start it's hard for the motorcyclists and cars that zoom through red lights to judge your trajectory.

Happy Birthday to Me

Happy Birthday to me, happy birthday dear meeee, happy birthday to me. To celebrate I ordered a black olive pizza and a bottle of Pepsi from Pizza Hut. It arrived on the back of a motorcycle and was delievered by a courteous man that bowed to me. Try getting that kind of service in Pizza Hut's home city! Not only that but he came back a minute later to tell me I had given him too much money. I told him it was his to keep. And the part I'm happy about is that I ordered it over the phone in Chinese AND I received exactly what I ordered! Try that in English in Peavine and see if you get what you ordered. I never could.

Find the Dictator

I guess you've probably seen on TV about Kim Jong-il's (North Korea's pompadoured dictator) secretive trip through China? He entered China on his special train and then disappeared, only to show up in Guangzhou in southern China, then in Beijing and who knows where else. Kim Jong-il sightings have become like Elvis sightings are in the US. Why, I saw him in a KFC in Taishan this morning!

Please note: you can't believe everything you read on the Internet.

New Years Banquet

This evening I was invited to a traditional Chinese New Year banquet hosted by a district of the city. It began with several loud speeches which were followed by several courses of dinner, traditional music, numerous toasts, and a sudden disbanding. It is customary for the hosts to walk from table to table toasting each table in turn. Since there were about 60 tables of 10 people each I think they must have had to prop the hosts up by the time they hit 40+ tables.

The hosts were gracious and exceedingly friendly. The lady seated next to me had been to the US once - visiting New York, Washington DC, San Francisco, Las Vegas and Hawaii with a delegation of city officials. I've met so many Chinese officials who have done this route through America that I think it could be considered their version of the Haj. If you are a Vice Mayor (a bit like being a bank vice president in the US - there are many) in a Chinese city and haven't take this route through the US at taxpayer's expense then you aren't doing something right.

The end of a banquet such as this comes suddenly. When the fruit hits the table the attendees jump up and leave in unison. I missed the signal and, aware of the sudden silence, turned to find every other table empty and a couple of hundred people trying to get into the elevators at the same time.

Then I came home and ate a burrito.

Receptions

With the Chinese New Year coming up later this month there are all kinds of parties and receptions going on. We had one tonight. While I've been to quite a few receptions at consulates this was the first time I was part of the hosting party. It was fun and easy. I enjoyed meeting the guests and using a bit of my Chinese. But it was mentally exhausting as well.

In the afternoon I had a meeting over "high tea" at the Ritz. Over my host's shoulder I couldn't help but notice a Chinese gentleman wearing a gold sequined jacket and gold beret. I would have liked to meet him - I bet he's not an accountant.

Walking Holiday

I walked for six hours Monday as I enjoyed the rainy holiday (MLK) in Shanghai. I walked from one end of Nanjing Rd. to the other and back - looking at the multitude of shops, stopping into the bookstores, and seeing the old Bund that parallels the river. The Bund is where all the old European buildings are but they are now occupied by upscale restaurants and government offices. Back in the late 80s when I first came here these buildings were terribly run-down and neglected. Now the Bund is back.

I stopped into a KFC for a Coke but left when I became irritated at some old guy that butted in line and wouldn't move. I told him he ought to get in line but all he did was repeat what I said. The KFC girl waited on him although I told her she shouldn't. Not wanting to test my diplomatic immunity so soon I snarled at the man and went across the street to McDs. Butting in line is a big problem in mainland China and I know I'm going to have to get used to dealing with it without busting a blood vessel. But at least I know how to tell the line-butter-inners what I think. I'm pretty flexible on cultural issues but I'll never accept that butting in line is OK.

When I got back home I had a bag of "Riffles" potato chips and a Sprite while I watched "Monk" on cable. I had a headache and since the only pain-killers I brought were the Tylenol PM capsules Lynda gave me I took them and konked out about 8 pm.

Pushing the Envelope

I pushed the envelope today. I took a ride on the public bus AND the subway in the same day. OK, that doesn't sound like much but getting on a bus, without a route map, in a city of 20 million is a leap of faith. I wasn't sure where I was going to end up - and sure enough I missed the target. A 30-minute walk solved that problem. The journey was made even more challenging by the pollution which hid the skyscrapers from view and eliminated their use as landmarks. I also learned that I need removable knees if I hope to sit in the bus seats without turning sideways. It took an hour to get downtown on Bus #911 (vs 20 minutes by taxi) but it only cost 25 cents (vs $4 for taxi).

In the afternoon I attended the only official Protestant church for foreigners in Shanghai, the International Community Church. The services are at 2 pm and 4 pm and only foreign passport holders are allowed to attend these English services. I went with a couple of visiting friends from Zebco - one of them a former student of mine at Peavine State. Before church we had lunch at Vegetarian Life restaurant where we had veggie Peking Duck, chicken balls, black pepper steak and dumplings. It was great. Tasty, cheap, clean. My only regret is they don't sell Coke to balance out all the healthy stuff. My understanding of the Yin Yang Principle is that one should balance healthy food with some soda pop or french fries to maintain that all-important qi balance.

On to the subway. It was not too crowded tonight and the system was similar to DC's. You buy a card from a machine and the directions are given in English and Chinese. It cost about 33 cents. Quite a few beggars on the subway though. After getting off at People's Square I walked down Nanjing Road's shopping walkway and fended off touts and innumerable fake Rollex (yes, Rollex with an extra "l") pushers. I'm thinking of getting a t-shirt printed up that says, in Chinese, "I don't want to buy any Rollexs so leave me alone, I really really mean it!".

Hongbao

The weather warmed up a bit today so I took a taxi downtown and wandered up and down Nanjing Street. I handed the taxi driver a card with the address of a vegetarian restaurant on it but he took me to a Pizza Hut instead. I guess he thought all Americans must eat at Pizza Hut. Not wanting to mess with his mind (it appeared it had already been messed with) I went in and ordered a small cheese pizza and Pepsi for about US$6.50 The healthy food would have to wait for another day.

My next stop was a 9-story department store full of imported and domestically-produced gadgets, clothing, and foods. Interesting but overpriced. From my experience last Saturday I knew that getting a cab in downtown Shanghai on Saturday night would be difficult so at 5 pm I took a taxi back to the multi-story Carrefour megastore in Gubei (in my vicinity) where I shopped for food, extension cords, music CDs, and Snickers. The Chinese New Year is coming up in late January so much of the store was given over to special festival products. I didn't buy any but when I opened my extension cord at home I found a packet of hongbao (red envelope) inside the package - gratis. Hongbaos are used by adults to put money inside and give to children.

Strong & Bitey

The cold weather in Shanghai this first weekend kept me inside most of the time but I did venture to a couple of supermarkets to see what is available. The nearby Carrefour (a French-owned supermarket) is a multi-level museum of consumerism. I spent three hours there checking out brands.

Tonight I am munching on Australian-made “Bega” brand cheese advertised on the package as “strong and bitey”. It tastes like white cheddar cheese. I’m also munching on Lays brand “Green Tea Flavor” potato chips. Lays has a factory in Shanghai. I doubt if green tea flavored chips would catch on in the States.

Pizzaman in China

Pizzaman has arrived in Shanghai safe and sound. The flight from Peavine was long and arduous but is behind me. I've checked into my new home in one of the biggest cities on Earth and I think I can live with it for awhile. I'm too jetlagged to write much today but I promise more as soon as I get Internet at my house in a few days - if not before.

Greyman will be happy that we have Cartoon Network and Disney Channel on our cable TV.

In Chicago

Back on the road again. Arrived in Chicago only three hours late. It took 1 hour and 20 minutes flight time and a mere 1 hour and 30 minutes for OHare Airport's crack baggage handlers to get my luggage to me. It took almost another hour for me to get to the on-airport Hilton Hotel because OHare Airport's elevators and signage are so pathetic. The elavators all look like a riot took place inside each one. Wires jutting from holes in the walls, signage broken, and too small and slow for luggage carts. So I took a 3-minute taxi ride to the hotel where an automated ATM-like "reception desk" welcomed me, took my money and spat out a door key. Now I have three hours to sleep before I fight my way back onto an airplane to China. Ahh, travel is so glamorous these days!